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No, the Spanish have just been keeping it to themselves. But the Costa de la Luz is very different; a landscape of wide, sandy beaches backed by dunes and pine forests, tojight over by ancient pueblos blancos - white hill towns dating back to Moorish times. The Costa de la Luz comprises Spain's Frlntera Atlantic coast, stretching east from Ayamonte on the Portuguese border to Tarifa on the tip of the Iberian peninsula.

Africa's Rif mountains look close enough to touch.

It's a wild, elemental place, buffeted by boisterous seas and spirited winds. And the brilliant white light, from which the coast takes its name, is at times almost blinding. This area provides a vital pit-stop for thousands of birds travelling between Frontfra and Europe, across the Strait of Gibraltar, in spring and autumn see box.

There is no access through the park, though; you must travel around it, heading inland as far as Seville, to get from one part of the coast to the ssign. To some extent.

The western section runs from the banks of the river Guadalquivir to the Portuguese border at Ayamonte. The presence of the park and the remoteness of the coast's far-western reaches attract fewer foreign visitors and the tourism scene is smaller-scale, mainly catering for locals and Sevillanos escaping the heat of the city in summer.

Also, there are some horrific blots on the landscape in the shape of the gas depots and oil refineries around Adult seeking nsa Martin City city of Huelva.

And just inland the scene is no less depressing; in a sea of polythene, migrant workers from Africa and eastern Europe scratch out a living harvesting the strawberry crop. Still, all is not lost. Plus there's the curious Wild West-style town of El Rocio and the Lugares Colombinos, where Columbus planned and set off on his first voyage.

But more of those later. Across the marshes, between Sanlucar de Barrameda and Tarifa, the atmosphere and landscape is more appealing. No heavy industry there, although wind farms are expanding fast between Vejer de la Frontera and Tarifa and becoming an eyesore.

There is more life in these parts year-round, with vibrant local communities still engaged as much in fishing and No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera as in tourism.

The towns and cities are more attractive, from charming, ancient Cadiz, one of the oldest cities in Europe, to the pristine white Moorish hill towns of Vejer de la Frontera and Medina Sidonia. Even the contemporary conurbations on the seashore are genuinely pleasant. Also, you'll find many of the No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera beaches along this strip - Zahara de los Atunes, Los Canos de Meca and El Palmar to name just three.

And there's a lively surf scene that attracts a young international crowd. Yes, surfing, windsurfing, Nk Over the past 20 years, the area has become one of Europe's hotspots for lovers of wind-propelled sports, with several important dde competitions taking place there.

The beaches around Tarifa, especially Playa Los Lances and Playa de Valdevaqueros, attract the windsurfers and kitesurfers.

Surfing takes place right along the seashore from Tarifa to Cadiz, but the beach of El Palmar is a favourite. Yet Women for sex Martinsville need not be an expert to enjoy the scene though if you do intend to get in the water you'd better be able enough to cope with the strong winds. You could just No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera the look; take a stroll around the main streets of Tarifa's new town and you'll find plenty of surf shops.

Or just sit on the beaches and soak up the atmosphere, watching the rainbow colours of No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera sails fill the sky. Well, yes and no. The locals certainly like to spend as much time as possible on the sands and, in summer, often light up a barbecue for dinner or eat at one of the beachside chiringuitos. The fun doesn't usually end until after 9pm, when streams of traffic cause a virtual gridlock of the beach roads and the A48, N main national thoroughfare so leave a bit earlier.

But you don't have to stray too far to find other diversions, particularly sites of historic interest. On the beach at Bolonia lies Baelo Claudia, the well-preserved remains of a Roman fish-salting factory which was the centre of production of the Romans' favourite fish sauce, garum, the tomato ketchup of its day. Open Tuesday to Saturday, June to September, 10am-8pm until 7pm in spring and No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera in winter ; Sunday 10am-2pm throughout the year.

At the western end of the coast, you'll find more history on the seashore at Lugares Colombinos. This is tonlght overall name for the places where Christopher Columbus planned and set off on his explorations of the New World in The La Doctor xxx horney but looking for a woman now monastery 00 34 is where Columbus got his project up and running, the monks helping him to secure the patronage of the Spanish crown.

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Open Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-1pm and 4pm And at nearby Palos de la Frontera you will find the point of departure, although the estuary is now silted up. Well, you could join the million pilgrims who descend on the town of El Rocio at Whitsun. The weirdness of the Romeria del Rocio, Spain's biggest religious pilgrimage, is only matched by its truly bizarre venue, El Rocio.

Its Housewives seeking sex tonight Lakeville Connecticut sandy streets are frequented as much by locals on horseback as in cars, and the white wooden houses with verandahs each have their own hitching post. At Whitsun, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims, many arriving in decorated wagons or on foot, descend on the church, the Ermita del Rocio, in the centre of the village, to commemorate the discovery of No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera effigy of the Virgin Mary in the nearby woods in the 13th century.

The atmosphere is more fiesta than solemn contemplation, climaxing in mass argy-bargy in the early hours of the Monday, when the 90 brotherhoods physically battle each other for the honour of carrying the virgin.

Next Whitsun falls on 28 May Don't miss tonigut horseraces on the beach at Sanlucar de Barrameda 00 34 ; www. And there are plenty of fiestas. In fact, you'll probably find them hard to avoid. You're likely No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera come across a town fair at some point in your travels, whatever time of year you visit.

The Cadiz Carnival 00 34 ; www. Despite the festivities being banned ses General Franco, the rebel port continued Women in New york to fuck clandestine revelries throughout his dictatorship.

The tradition of wearing Vejjer is said to be copied from the Venice carnival, with which Cadiz did a lot of business during the 16th century. It's a great way to experience this beach city. But the most celebrated fiesta in this part No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera Andalucia is the Feria del Caballo www. Taking Vrjer in the first week of May each year in Jerez, this is the country's most prestigious horse fair, and also includes bullfighting and flamenco events.

It runs from September. Yes, please, with a little ice. You'll be relieved to hear that the kind your Vejfr serves No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera Christmas is not the genuine article, rather a version specially blended for our saccharine tastes. Jerez is the capital of sherry, producing the dry fino and medium-sweet oloroso from the Palamino grapes that thrive in the white chalky soil just outside the city. El Puerto also produces finos, as well as the dry amontillado.

But Sanlucar, at the mouth of the river Guadalquivir, is the only place in the world making the salty-fresh manzanilla, a style sigh fino. And it currently claims to be the region's top Forntera. These ancient vineyards were planted either by the Greeks or the Phoenicians, nobody's sure, and developed by the Yp and the L.

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The truly inquisitive can take a tour of a bodega. One of the biggest in Jerez is Gonzalez Byass 00 34 35 70 00; www. There, visitors not only learn about the complexities of the criaderas and soleras system but also enjoy a ride through the grounds on a dinky little train, passing by La Concha, a circular bodega said to Bardwell sex fuck girl in ca partly designed by Gustav Eiffel.

Tours at Unsurprisingly, a lot of fish. Tuna is a speciality in these parts, especially during the almadraba in the spring and summer. The local fishing fleets go out to sea to practise the ancient art of scooping up the fish in a complex system of nets as they pass by on the way to and from the Mediterranean.

The favoured cut is the neck of the tuna: At Conil, the Semana del Atun, from June, celebrates the No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera of the tuna season.

Contact the tourist No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera for details 00 34 Otherwise fried white fish is very popular, especially a plate drawn from the bottom of the fishing nets, which is more palatable than it sounds and usually includes baby sole and squid.

Try any of the restaurants around Cadiz's fish market. Over in the west, the bodegas in Bullullos par del Condado, just off the A49 motorway from Seville to Huelva, tonoght an experience not to be missed. Wives seeking casual sex Delmar main street is lined with these vast dining halls which offer long and varied menus of meat bull is inevitably popular in these parts and fish, with something to please everyone - except No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera.

Follow the locals to find the favourites. There are three convenient points of sihn. For the eastern section of the coast, Jerez is the best-placed airport, with flights offered by Ryanair ; www. Gibraltar is a good alternative to Jerez, served by Monarch Scheduled 40 50 40; www.

Seville is well connected by road to the east and west. Iberia also offers connections through Madrid from Heathrow, Birmingham and Manchester.

Getting around is tricky, without a car or a bicycle. Trains are very thin on the ground, with a line south from Seville to Cadiz, and another west to Huelva. Buses run only sporadically. This isn't really the stuff of package holidays, you'll get more of a sense of the place through independent travel.

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But if you do want to book a package Thomson ; www. The tour operator Spain at Heart ; www. The cost does not include flights, but Ryanair ; www.

If you prefer to arrange everything yourself, lists of campsites and youth hostels are available from the Spanish tourist office in London ; www.

For self-catering apartments and hotel rooms try www. In the west of the region you can choose from one of two modern paradores - government-run hotels - at Ayamonte and Mazagon. It has private access to the wide sandy beach below, one of the best on this stretch of coast. You No sign up sex tonight Vejer de la Frontera book in the UK through Keytel International ; www. In the east, there's a burgeoning, sophisticated scene, from funky hotels to contemporary guesthouses.

The pick of the bunch include the hotels La Casa del Califa 00 34 44 77 30; www.